On the sleeper train between Belgrade and Sofia there was only one, fairly short border crossing. It was the best night sleep I had had on a sleeper train so far and I was energetic enough to wander around the city until we could check in to Hostel Mostel. The staff gave us their map and told us to start the recommended walking tour. We did one circuit of the walking tour and saw:

• The Bania Bashi Mosque, which was closed for viewing that early in the morning;
• The Synagogue with an in-house modern light installation exhibition;
• St. Nedelia Church where we were allowed to take photos during the service, but not use our mobile phones (huh?);
• The Mineral Springs that were being cleaned with a high-pressure hose;
• The Central Mineral Baths that were closed; and
• Various shopping streets where I was not allowed window-shop (*pout*)!

A part of the light installation featured books

Hostel Mostel had a good vibe, good facilities and unique added extras for a cheap price. The hostel building was originally used as an Inn and had been rehabilitated so well that it used contactless smart cards instead of door keys. The hostel had three computers with free internet and wifi throughout the large common area, which was filled with tables, couches and a carpeted area with lots of pillows. The common room also had a pool table and we spent many hours playing - even me. I think I got better by the end, but I am most inconsistent!

The usual Eastern European and/or Middle Eastern Hostel breakfast features bread, cream cheese, tomatos, cucumber, coffee/tea, olives and jam. Hostel Mostel provided three types of jam - not in the small, individual servings but the good stuff from a jar! Oh, they also had salami and Nutella, which made me happy. A bowl of simple pasta (aka tomato sauce from a tub) for dinner, accompanied by a glass of beer, was also included in the room price.

Once in the dorm we introduced ourselves to the others - two Aussies and a Belgian. As Matt went to sleep, the rest of us decided to see what goods were sold at the 'Lady's Market' (as labeled in our map). Before setting off we were warned by the hostel workers that the market area was rife with pick-pockets and to be very wary of our belongings.

When we entered the market it had the normal bustle of people selling clothes, fruits and vegetables, spices, nuts, dried fruits, juices, toiletries and wine. I didn't see one person who was even entertaining the idea of picking our pockets. I mean, would someone really steal from a group of tourists in the middle of a packed market in broad daylight? I don't think so. I have found that cities in this part of the world have dodgy or dangerous reputations, but it always seems grossly exaggerated in reality. In the end, having no need for anything else, we filled a plastic bottle with red wine from a barrel and sat in a park to converse.

Barrels filled with a variety of wine, for sale by the bottle

During our time wandering around Sofia we found another market, which was similar to the Sunday Markets we have at home. This was definitely one of those moments when I wished we had the weight and the space to buy things to take home. The most interesting items were: jewelery, muskets, knives, bayonets, gramophones, blank credit cards and accoridon style cameras. Matt really wanted to buy a bayonet.

The next day everyone was feeling just as lazy and a picnic was had next to the Soviet Army Monument. It was certainly one of the best picnic lunches so far because we bought vegetables, fruit, roast chicken, crusty white bread, cheese, coke, and cream cheese from Billa. We spent some time watching kids practice roller blading around the park and on a wooden half-pipe. They fell over a lot but, to their credit, they did it over and over again. Before ambling home we took some photos around, above and within an alfresco statue situated on the side of the monument, which I hope was not an offensive thing to do. Sometimes the best days are the most simple: good food with people who make you laugh.

Our picnic location

After having dinner we usually went out to test the night life. At The Rock Club the five of us were the only customers. We talked, laughed and enjoyed some live music. The duo were pretty good; his guitar solos were epic and the singer's voice was impressive, especially when she was singing in Bulgarian. It was a good night until I ordered a double Jack Daniels and coke because I forgot that double shots in many Eastern European countries were 100ml.

Our entertainment at the Rock Club

The next night we tried to go somewhere different, but could not get in anywhere because we had 'no reservation'. On reflection, it might have been our thongs and jeans that did it.

On our last day in Sofia we took a day trip to Rila Monastery. Rila Monastery is surrounded by a national park and many people come here to hike. We only came to see the Monastery and the beautifully painted Orthodox Church within.

A fresco from the outside of the church

Our guide on the day was not the talkative type and so we were left to wonder about the Monastery and surrounds by ourselves. This meant that none of us learned much about the Monastery's history or St. John of Rila, a hermit who lived in this hills for many years before his follows founded the Monastery in his honour. Besides from seeing where the present monks live, we also visited the nearby river to dip our feet and climbed up the hill to see where St. John of Rila lived in a cave. The view from the hill above his abode was amazing! Also, if you ever visit the Monastery do stop to buy some doughnuts with blackberry sauce because they were very, very good. And yes, it is always about the food.

Taking in the view

Location