The Inca Trail is probably one of the most famous hikes in the world. Limits have been set on the number of people allowed on the trail and you can no longer hike without a qualified guide. New hiking regulations have been slowly introduced since 2001 to limit the impact of hikers and camping on the national park.

A maximum of 500 people are allowed to begin the four day hike each day, which means 2000 people are on the trail every day (except during February when the trail is closed). Of these 2000 people only 800 are hikers, while the rest are made up of porters and guides. Even so, nearly every backpacker we have met in South America has done or is going to do the trail.

There are two options to hike the trail; with a guide or with a tour group. Private tours are expensive and you're required to carry all your own equipment and cook your own food. Therefore, people usually choose to hike the trail with a tour group. We chose Peru Treks and hiked with two guides, one cook, one cook's assistant, nineteen porters and twelve other hikers. I recommend the four day ´classic` hike to anyone who can walk and I can not be enthusiastic enough about Peru Treks or our guides Oscar and Willy.

I found the hike difficult for a number of reasons, but not because the trail itself was extremely taxing. Anyone who has been hiking in the European Alps, New Zealand or (I imagine) Tasmania would find the trail to be easier than many others in mountainous regions. There was nothing about the trail that I considered dangerous to an inexperienced hiker. Experienced hikers probably found the hike fairly easy and Matt never had any trouble. To illustrate my point, one particular member of our group arrived at each camp at the same time as the porters - who run.

The hike was only hard for me because I was unfit; especially when walking uphill. My asthma was triggered every time I walked uphill and I am certain I would not have finished the hike if I had not carried my emergency Bricanyl puffer.

The second day was the most exhausting because we hiked from 3000m above sea level (ASL) to 4200mASL at Dead Womans Pass. During this climb I took 6 puffs of my Bricanyl and Matt explained my asthma to Willy, who always walked with the last hikers and kept the emergency oxygen.

As we climbed closer and closer to Dead Womans Pass I started to feel the effects of high altitude; I had a slight headache and my heart was beating loudly in my ears. During the climb I had to stop fairly regularly to catch my breath. I didn't feel bad about stopping because I could see everyone (including the porters) doing the same.

We saw quite a bit of wildlife on the second day, especially during rest breaks, though none of our photos every did them justice. Matt pointed out a number of cows that we think they were a native species, but I could be entirely wrong about them being cows. We glimpsed large hummingbirds collecting nectar in the trees and watched birds of prey circle high above the mountain peaks.

As people reached the top of the pass at 4200mASL, I could hear them cheering. I was surprised and grateful that our group waited until I had reached the top before continuing the hike. I didn´t expect it and the cheer was totally fantastic. During the throes of taking a group photo the heavens opened and continued for the rest of day two. As soon as the photo was taken we all began the mad dash down steep steps to our second camp at 3700mASL.

Being as stubborn as a mule had its advantages during this hike and no more so than on the second day. There was no way anyone was going to push me harder than I wanted to be pushed because I knew I had the time to make it at my own pace. Trying to keep up with the others on the second day could have cost me the hike itself. Luckily for me, Matt was in total agreement and always told me to slow down if I had inadvertently sped up. I am sure the hike would have been much harder if I had been alone.

Other than my lack of stamina for walking uphill and general breathing issues, my body felt good at the end of every day. I never collapsed in a heap when I reached the night camps as I had anticipated would occur. And even though I always arrived last, Matt and I always reached camp within the designated time.

I loved the third day, even though it involved 8 hours of walking, because it was mostly downhill. Other people were not so enthusiastic about walking downhill due to bad knees etc, but we all made it to the night camp in good time after copying the running technique employed by the porters. Once again we saw quite a bit of wildlife; there were some massive butterflies, lizards and birds.

However, the real charm of the third day was the forest scenery and the fog that engulfed us for most of the day. The fog made the walk very eerie, which was interesting enough but it was impossible to see the ice capped mountain ranges to the left and right of the trail. The views on the third day were supposed to be amazing, but I will never know.

At the end of the day, very close to camp, was a junction. The two options were a short cut into camp or the longer original route via Inca terraces currently covered in orchids. We were feeling good and decided we should see the terraces. We were rewarded with a relaxing walk and a nice view.

That night was our last night as a group of hikers, guides, chef and porters. Because it was a special occasion the chef baked a cake (in a pot on the gas stove). How he managed to bake it and ice it still baffles me, but it was just one of many amazing meals served throughout the hike. Buffet meals for lunch and dinner included a combination of soup, fish, chicken, ham, baked vegetables, porridge, salad, chips, pasta and rice. Tea was served at the end of every meal and I usually had a mixture of chamomile and coca tea.

On the fourth and last morning we woke up at 3.30am so that we would be at the front of the line when the entrance to the Historic Sanctuary Machu Pichu was opened at 5.45am. We packed camp and ate breakfast so quickly that we were the first group there!

I will never forget the craziness of one particular tour group that accompanied that morning walk. This group was renowned for running during the final day in order to reach Machu Pichu first. Throughout the hike we were always asked to keep to the mountain side of the trail and to let porters pass when they announced themselves. This group did not announce themselves and rudely pushed past in such a way that a number of them slipped. What made this racing business completely ludicrous is the fact that our group arrived at Machu Pichu at the same time as them. To quote one member of that tour group, "they are idiots". Rant over.

We arrived at Machu Pichu early in the morning to find it covered in cloud. Now and then the clouds cleared to give us a wonderful view of the city and surrounding mountains. It felt fantastic to arrive at Machu Pichu after the experience of the hike...it was certainly a reward.

We were guided around the complex by Oscar before the crowds became unbearable, just as he had done at other Incan ruins throughout the hike. Interestingly enough, I am not sure whether a one day visit to Machu Pichu would be as satisfying as seeing the city after the hike. Quite a number of people who stayed at our hostel and did a one day trip to Machu Pichu were slightly disappointed.

After the two hour tour we spied a large patch of silky, green grass and all preceded to lie down and finish off a bag of scroggin. Taking our shoes off, we nestled them in the grass and had a nap. Soon it started to pour with rain (again) and we all high tailed it down the mountain to Aguas Calientes and our lunch.

Location